Montenegrin Apricot and Rosemary Cooler with Rakija and Fresh Lemon

Combine the sugar, water and 3 rosemary sprigs in a small saucepan and bring to a bare simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves.

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 1 pound ripe apricots, halved and pitted
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup water
• 3 sprigs fresh rosemary, plus 4 for garnish
• 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
• Pinch of fine sea salt
• 6 ounces rakija (grape or plum brandy)
• 1 1/2 cups chilled sparkling water
• Ice cubes, for serving
• 1 lemon, cut into thin wheels

Instructions

1. Combine the sugar, water and 3 rosemary sprigs in a small saucepan and bring to a bare simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
2. Pull the pan off the heat and steep the rosemary for 15 minutes, then lift the sprigs out. Steeping longer turns the syrup medicinal rather than fragrant.
3. Meanwhile, roast the apricot halves cut-side up in a 425°F oven for 15 minutes, until slumped, blistered at the edges and smelling like jam. Roasting concentrates fruit that would otherwise taste thin once diluted.
4. Blend the roasted apricots with the rosemary syrup and the lemon juice until completely smooth, adding a splash of water if the puree is too thick to pour.
5. Pass the puree through a coarse sieve, stir in the pinch of salt, and chill until cold.
6. Fill four tumblers with ice, add 1 1/2 ounces of rakija to each, and divide the apricot base among them.
7. Top with sparkling water, stir once, and garnish with a rosemary sprig and a lemon wheel. Leave out the rakija and add a little more sparkling water for an alcohol-free version.
8. Rakija is the spine of Montenegrin hospitality, poured for guests at any hour and distilled at home across the country from whatever fruit the year produced. Apricots ripen fast and all at once along the Adriatic hinterland, which is why so much of the crop gets cooked down, preserved or drunk, and roasting them before they meet the brandy is the small step that keeps the drink tasting like fruit rather than like sweetened water.

Nutrition (estimated, per serving)

• Calories: 240 kcal
• Protein: 1g
• Fat: 0g
• Carbohydrates: 32g
• Fiber: 2g
• Sugar: 29g
• Sodium: 40mg