Persian Kuku Sabzi: Farmers-Market Herb Frittata with Yogurt and Walnuts

Wash and dry the herbs thoroughly, then chop them fine by hand. A food processor bruises them into a wet paste and the kuku turns muddy rather than green — this is the one step worth doing with a knife.

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 2 cups packed flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped
• 1 1/2 cups packed cilantro leaves, finely chopped
• 1 cup packed dill fronds, finely chopped
• 1 bunch scallions or garlic chives, thinly sliced
• 8 large eggs
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/3 cup toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
• 3 tablespoons dried barberries or chopped dried cranberries
• 1/4 cup olive oil or melted butter
• 1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
• 1 cup thick yogurt and warm flatbread, to serve

Instructions

1. Wash and dry the herbs thoroughly, then chop them fine by hand. A food processor bruises them into a wet paste and the kuku turns muddy rather than green — this is the one step worth doing with a knife.
2. Heat the oven to 350F and oil a 9-inch skillet or cake tin generously.
3. Beat the eggs in a large bowl until just combined, then whisk in the flour, baking powder, turmeric and salt.
4. Fold in every scrap of the chopped herbs and scallions. The mixture should look like herbs barely held together by egg, not like an omelette with herbs in it — that ratio is the whole point of the dish.
5. Stir through the walnuts and barberries, reserving a spoonful of each to scatter on top.
6. Pour into the prepared tin, smooth the surface, scatter the reserved nuts and berries over, and drizzle with the remaining oil.
7. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until set in the centre and firm to a light press. The top will darken to a deep green-brown; that is correct.
8. Let it rest 10 minutes, then cut into wedges or diamonds and serve warm or at room temperature with thick yogurt and flatbread.
9. Kuku sabzi is the green heart of the Persian table, eaten at Nowruz as a symbol of renewal but made all through the growing season when herbs come in by the armload. Iranian cooks buy herbs the way other cooks buy vegetables — by weight, in bags, several kinds at once — and a market stall in high summer will sell you parsley, cilantro, dill and chives already bundled for exactly this dish. The barberries are not decoration: their sharpness cuts the richness of all those eggs.

Nutrition (estimated, per serving)

• Calories: 290 kcal
• Protein: 13g
• Fat: 22g
• Carbohydrates: 11g
• Fiber: 3g
• Sugar: 3g
• Sodium: 590mg