Trinidadian Callaloo with Peak-Harvest Okra, Pumpkin and Coconut Milk

Wash the dasheen or spinach leaves in several changes of cold water and shake dry. If using dasheen, strip out any thick central ribs, which stay tough and can leave a scratchy feeling in the throat.

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 1 lb fresh dasheen (taro) leaves or mature spinach, stems trimmed and leaves roughly chopped
• 12 oz peak-season pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes
• 10 fresh okra pods, topped and sliced 1/2 inch thick
• 1 can (13.5 oz) full-fat coconut milk
• 2 cups water or light vegetable stock
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• 6 fresh chives or 3 scallions, chopped
• 1 whole scotch bonnet pepper, left intact
• 2 tbsp coconut oil or butter
• 1 tsp salt, plus more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions

1. Wash the dasheen or spinach leaves in several changes of cold water and shake dry. If using dasheen, strip out any thick central ribs, which stay tough and can leave a scratchy feeling in the throat.
2. Melt the coconut oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook 5 minutes until translucent, then stir in the garlic and thyme and cook 1 minute more until fragrant.
3. Add the pumpkin cubes and turn to coat in the oil. Pour in the water and coconut milk, add the salt, and bring to a gentle simmer.
4. Pile in the chopped leaves. They will look like far too much; press them down with a spoon and cover the pot for 3 to 4 minutes until they wilt into the liquid.
5. Stir in the sliced okra, the chopped chives and the whole scotch bonnet. Do not pierce or break the pepper — it perfumes the pot without making the callaloo fiery.
6. Simmer uncovered, stirring now and then, for 30 to 35 minutes until the pumpkin is completely soft and the greens have broken down. The okra will thicken everything to a silky, almost velvety texture.
7. Fish out the scotch bonnet and the thyme stems. Traditionally the callaloo is now swizzled smooth with a wooden lele, but a few quick pulses with an immersion blender does the same job — leave a little texture rather than pureeing it flat.
8. Taste and correct with salt and black pepper. Serve hot in bowls with crusty bread, or ladled over rice as the centerpiece of a Sunday lunch.
9. Callaloo is the closest thing Trinidad has to a national dish, and every family swears their version is correct — some add crab or salt beef, some skip the pumpkin, some would never dream of it. What everyone agrees on is the swizzle stick and the whole scotch bonnet, which sits in the pot lending fragrance and getting removed before it can bite. Late August is when the dasheen leaves, pumpkin and okra all peak at once, which is why this bowl tastes best now.

Nutrition (estimated, per serving)

• Calories: 310 kcal
• Protein: 9g
• Fat: 19g
• Carbohydrates: 28g
• Fiber: 7g
• Sugar: 8g
• Sodium: 540mg