Venezuelan Quesillo: Caramel Milk Custard with Farmers-Market Blackberries

Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C) and put a kettle on for the water bath.

Serves 8

Ingredients

• 1 cup granulated sugar, for the caramel
• 2 tbsp water
• 1 can (14 oz) sweetened condensed milk
• 1 can (12 oz) evaporated milk
• 5 large eggs
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 tbsp dark rum (optional)
• Pinch of fine salt
• 2 cups fresh blackberries
• 2 tbsp sugar, for the berries
• 1 tbsp lime juice

Instructions

1. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C) and put a kettle on for the water bath.
2. Make the caramel: cook the sugar and water in a small heavy pan over medium heat without stirring, swirling occasionally, until it turns a deep amber — about 8 minutes. Take it one shade darker than feels comfortable; that bitterness is what keeps the custard from cloying.
3. Pour the caramel straight into a 9-inch round pan or tube mold and tilt quickly to coat the bottom. It will set hard within a minute.
4. Blend the condensed milk, evaporated milk, eggs, vanilla, rum and salt for a full 30 seconds. Yes, blend rather than whisk — the deliberate aeration is what gives quesillo its signature honeycomb of little holes.
5. Pour the mixture over the set caramel, cover the pan tightly with foil, and set it in a roasting tin. Pour boiling water into the tin to come halfway up the sides.
6. Bake 55 to 65 minutes, until the custard is set at the edges with a slight wobble at the center. Do not wait for it to be firm all through or it will turn rubbery as it cools.
7. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate at least 6 hours and preferably overnight — the caramel needs that time to liquefy into sauce.
8. Toss the blackberries with the sugar and lime juice and let them sit 20 minutes. Run a knife around the pan, invert onto a rimmed plate, and let the caramel run before spooning the berries alongside.
9. Quesillo is Venezuela's answer to flan, and Venezuelans are quick to point out the difference: flan is smooth and dense, while quesillo is riddled with tiny bubbles that gave it its name, since the sliced custard looks like a wedge of cheese. It is the fixed point of every birthday and Christmas table in the country, made in the same battered aluminum mold passed down through a family. The blackberries are not traditional — they are a nod to August, when the fruit is heavy and cheap — but their sharpness cuts the sweetness in a way that makes a second slice possible.

Nutrition (estimated, per serving)

• Calories: 340 kcal
• Protein: 9g
• Fat: 10g
• Carbohydrates: 54g
• Fiber: 2g
• Sugar: 50g
• Sodium: 130mg