Filipino Sago at Gulaman: Chilled Brown Sugar Cooler with Tapioca

Boil the tapioca pearls in a large pot of water for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring now and then, until they are translucent with only a pinprick of white at the center.

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup (100g) small tapioca pearls (sago)
• 1 packet (25g) unflavored gulaman or agar-agar powder
• 2 cups (480ml) water, for the jelly
• 1 cup (200g) dark muscovado or brown sugar
• 1 cup (240ml) water, for the syrup
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 4 cups (960ml) cold water
• Plenty of ice, for serving

Instructions

1. Boil the tapioca pearls in a large pot of water for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring now and then, until they are translucent with only a pinprick of white at the center.
2. Turn off the heat, cover, and let the pearls sit for 10 minutes to finish cooking through, then drain and rinse under cold water so they stay separate.
3. Make the jelly: whisk the gulaman powder into 2 cups of water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, and simmer 2 minutes until fully dissolved. Pour into a shallow dish and let it set at room temperature, about 20 minutes.
4. Cut the set jelly into small cubes with a knife. It should be firm enough to hold its shape but soft enough to bite through easily.
5. Make the arnibal syrup: combine the muscovado sugar, 1 cup water and salt in a saucepan and simmer 5 minutes until slightly thickened and deeply fragrant. Stir in the vanilla and cool completely.
6. Toss the drained tapioca pearls with a few spoonfuls of the cooled syrup so they do not clump and take on color and sweetness.
7. To build each glass, spoon in a generous scoop of pearls and jelly cubes, add 3 tablespoons of syrup, fill with cold water and ice, and stir well.
8. Taste and adjust with more syrup or water; the drink should be refreshing rather than cloying, with the smoky edge of the muscovado coming through.
9. Sago at gulaman is the drink of Filipino street corners and school gates, ladled from enormous plastic jugs into bags with straws on hot afternoons. The pairing of chewy tapioca with soft seaweed jelly predates the global bubble tea boom by generations, and the muscovado syrup gives it a molasses depth that plain sugar can never match.

Nutrition (estimated, per serving)

• Calories: 240 kcal
• Protein: 0g
• Fat: 0g
• Carbohydrates: 61g
• Fiber: 1g
• Sugar: 50g
• Sodium: 160mg