Indian Masala Chaas: Chilled Spiced Buttermilk with Cumin and Ginger

Toast the cumin seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat for 60 to 90 seconds, shaking the pan, until they darken a shade and smell nutty. Cool, then grind all but a pinch to a coarse powder.

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 2 cups plain full-fat yogurt, whisked smooth
• 3 cups cold water
• 1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
• 1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and grated
• 1 small green chili, seeds removed, finely minced
• 1/4 cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped
• 8 fresh mint leaves
• 1 teaspoon black salt (kala namak) or 3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• Ice cubes, for serving
• 4 curry leaves, for garnish

Instructions

1. Toast the cumin seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat for 60 to 90 seconds, shaking the pan, until they darken a shade and smell nutty. Cool, then grind all but a pinch to a coarse powder.
2. Whisk the yogurt in a large bowl until completely smooth with no lumps, which is easier before any water goes in.
3. Add the cold water in a slow stream, whisking constantly, until the drink is thin enough to pour freely.
4. Stir in the ground cumin, grated ginger, green chili, black salt and black pepper.
5. Bruise the mint leaves between your palms and drop them in with the chopped cilantro, then chill the whole batch for at least an hour.
6. Taste again once cold, since salt and spice both mute at low temperature, and adjust the black salt and chili to suit.
7. Strain if you prefer a clean drink, or leave the herbs suspended for a more rustic version, and pour over ice into tall glasses.
8. Finish each glass with the reserved whole cumin seeds, a little extra cilantro and a fresh curry leaf laid across the top.
9. Chaas is what appears on Indian tables when the afternoon turns punishing, and it is functional as much as refreshing: thinned yogurt rehydrates better than plain water, and the toasted cumin and black salt are traditionally credited with settling a heavy meal. Unlike a sweet lassi, this one is savory and bracing, which makes it the rare cold drink that works alongside dinner rather than after it.

Nutrition (estimated, per serving)

• Calories: 90 kcal
• Protein: 6g
• Fat: 4g
• Carbohydrates: 8g
• Fiber: 0g
• Sugar: 7g
• Sodium: 620mg