Mexican Calabaza en Tacha: Candied Pumpkin Simmered in Piloncillo and Cinnamon Syrup

Score the flesh of each pumpkin wedge in a crosshatch pattern about 1/2 inch deep so the syrup can soak in. Leave the skin on; it holds the wedges together as they soften.

Serves 8

Ingredients

• 1 small pumpkin or calabaza (about 4 lb / 1.8 kg), skin on, seeded and cut into 3-inch wedges
• 1 lb (450 g) piloncillo, chopped, or 2 cups packed dark brown sugar
• 3 cups water
• 2 cinnamon sticks
• 4 whole cloves
• 2 star anise (optional)
• Peel of 1 orange, in wide strips
• 1/2 cup fresh orange juice
• Pinch of salt
• Cold milk or evaporated milk, for serving

Instructions

1. Score the flesh of each pumpkin wedge in a crosshatch pattern about 1/2 inch deep so the syrup can soak in. Leave the skin on; it holds the wedges together as they soften.
2. In a wide heavy pot or Dutch oven, combine the piloncillo, water, cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise, orange peel, orange juice and salt. Heat over medium, stirring, until the piloncillo fully dissolves.
3. Arrange the pumpkin wedges in the pot, skin side down, in a single layer if possible. Spoon some syrup over the tops.
4. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook over low heat for 40 minutes, basting the wedges with syrup every 10 minutes.
5. Uncover and continue to simmer for 30 to 45 minutes more, basting often, until the pumpkin is completely tender and translucent and the syrup has reduced to a thick, dark caramel that coats the back of a spoon.
6. Turn off the heat and let the pumpkin rest in the syrup for at least 30 minutes; it absorbs more flavor as it cools.
7. Serve warm or at room temperature, spooning plenty of syrup over each wedge, with a splash of cold milk poured around it to balance the sweetness.
8. Calabaza en tacha is the dessert of the Mexican autumn, prepared in the weeks leading up to Dia de los Muertos when pumpkins are piled high in every market. The name comes from the tacho, the copper kettle once used in sugar mills, where cooks would candy pumpkin in the leftover cane syrup. Piloncillo, the unrefined cone of raw cane sugar, gives the syrup its smoky molasses depth, and the cinnamon and orange peel are the classic warming spices of the season. A dish of it often sits on the ofrenda for returning spirits, and the rest is eaten for breakfast or dessert with a glass of milk.

Nutrition (estimated, per serving)

• Calories: 290 kcal
• Protein: 2g
• Fat: 0g
• Carbohydrates: 73g
• Fiber: 3g
• Sugar: 64g
• Sodium: 35mg