Mexican Conchas: Soft Pan Dulce Sweet Rolls with Crackly Sugar Shells for Dia de Muertos

In a stand mixer bowl, whisk together the 3 1/2 cups flour, granulated sugar, yeast and salt. Add the warm milk, eggs and vanilla and mix with the dough hook on low until a shaggy dough forms.

Serves 12

Ingredients

• 3 1/2 cups (440g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
• 1/2 cup (100g) granulated sugar
• 2 1/4 tsp (1 packet) instant yeast
• 1 tsp fine salt
• 3/4 cup (180ml) whole milk, warmed to about 110°F
• 2 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1/2 cup (115g) unsalted butter, softened, for the dough
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1/2 cup (115g) unsalted butter, softened, for the topping
• 2/3 cup (80g) powdered sugar
• 2/3 cup (85g) all-purpose flour, for the topping
• 2 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

Instructions

1. In a stand mixer bowl, whisk together the 3 1/2 cups flour, granulated sugar, yeast and salt. Add the warm milk, eggs and vanilla and mix with the dough hook on low until a shaggy dough forms.
2. Knead on medium speed for 5 minutes, then add the 1/2 cup softened butter one tablespoon at a time, letting each piece disappear before adding the next. Knead 6 to 8 minutes more until the dough is smooth, glossy and pulls cleanly from the bowl.
3. Shape into a ball, place in a lightly greased bowl, cover and let rise in a warm spot until doubled, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
4. Meanwhile make the topping: beat the remaining 1/2 cup butter with the powdered sugar until creamy, then work in the 2/3 cup flour to make a soft paste. Divide in half; knead the cocoa into one half and the cinnamon into the other.
5. Punch down the dough and divide into 12 equal pieces (about 75g each). Roll each into a tight ball and arrange on two parchment-lined baking sheets, leaving 3 inches between them.
6. Divide each topping paste into 6 balls. Flatten each between sheets of plastic wrap into a thin 3-inch disc and lay one over each dough ball, pressing gently so it drapes over the top.
7. Using a sharp paring knife or a concha cutter, score curved lines through the topping only to create the classic seashell pattern. Cover loosely and let rise 45 to 60 minutes until puffy.
8. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 18 to 22 minutes until the rolls are lightly golden at the base and the topping has crackled along the score lines. Cool on the sheets 10 minutes before serving warm with coffee or Mexican hot chocolate.
9. Conchas are the best-loved of Mexico's pan dulce, named for the seashell pattern scored into their sugar crust, and every panaderia window fills with them in the days around Dia de Muertos, when families carry sweet breads to the ofrenda and to the graveside for the loved ones they are remembering. The yeasted dough descends from French brioche brought to Mexico in the 19th century, but the crumbly sugar shell is entirely Mexican, and dunking a concha into coffee until the topping softens is a morning ritual from Oaxaca to Los Angeles.

Nutrition (estimated, per serving)

• Calories: 340 kcal
• Protein: 6g
• Fat: 17g
• Carbohydrates: 42g
• Fiber: 1g
• Sugar: 16g
• Sodium: 210mg