Welsh Glamorgan Sausages: Crispy Caerphilly Cheese and Leek Fritters with Mustard Dip

Melt the butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. Add the leek and a pinch of salt and cook gently for 6 to 8 minutes until very soft and sweet but not browned. Spread on a plate to cool.

Serves 6 (makes 12 sausages)

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 1 large leek, white and light green parts only, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
• 2 1/2 cups (150 g) fresh white breadcrumbs, divided
• 1 1/2 cups (150 g) Caerphilly cheese, crumbled (or crumbly Lancashire or mild white cheddar)
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
• 1 teaspoon English mustard powder
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt and 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 large eggs, separated, plus 1 extra egg white
• 2 to 3 tablespoons whole milk
• 1/2 cup (60 g) all-purpose flour, for coating
• Vegetable oil, for shallow frying
• For serving: 3 tablespoons wholegrain mustard mixed with 2 tablespoons crème fraîche, plus apple or onion chutney

Instructions

1. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. Add the leek and a pinch of salt and cook gently for 6 to 8 minutes until very soft and sweet but not browned. Spread on a plate to cool.
2. In a large bowl, combine 1 1/2 cups (90 g) of the breadcrumbs with the cheese, parsley, thyme, mustard powder, salt and pepper. Stir in the cooled leeks.
3. Lightly beat the 2 egg yolks with 2 tablespoons of milk and stir into the mixture until it holds together when squeezed. Add the extra tablespoon of milk only if it is too crumbly.
4. Divide into 12 portions and roll each into a sausage shape about 3 inches (8 cm) long. Chill on a tray for 20 minutes to firm up.
5. Set up three shallow dishes: the flour, the 3 egg whites lightly whisked until frothy, and the remaining 1 cup (60 g) of breadcrumbs. Roll each sausage in flour, then egg white, then breadcrumbs, pressing so the coating adheres.
6. Pour oil into a large skillet to a depth of 1/4 inch (6 mm) and heat over medium until a crumb sizzles immediately. Fry the sausages in two batches, turning every minute or so, until crisp and deep golden on all sides, 5 to 6 minutes per batch.
7. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with a little flaky salt while hot. To bake instead, brush with oil and roast at 400°F (200°C) for 20 to 25 minutes, turning once.
8. Stir the mustard and crème fraîche together for dipping. Serve the sausages hot or warm with the mustard dip and a spoonful of chutney.
9. Glamorgan sausages, or selsig Morgannwg, come from the old county of Glamorgan in South Wales and contain no meat at all. They were a staple of Welsh farmhouse kitchens in the nineteenth century, built around the local crumbly Caerphilly cheese and the leek, the national emblem of Wales. The recipe surged back into fashion during Second World War rationing when meat was scarce, and today they are a beloved pub starter and vegetarian centerpiece. Crisp on the outside and soft, savory and oniony within, they are exactly the sort of warming bite that suits a dark November evening by the fire.

Nutrition (estimated, per serving)

• Calories: 310 kcal
• Protein: 13g
• Fat: 17g
• Carbohydrates: 27g
• Fiber: 2g
• Sugar: 3g
• Sodium: 560mg